NINA ZENOVYA
Trullo
LONDON
29 June 2019
Trullo is one of those restaurants that people wax lyrical about. I follow it avidly on Instagram and was so excited when I won a voucher in a raffle (!) to go.
And so on a rather gloomy Tuesday in June I arrived at the completely unassuming restaurant façade in Islington. We immediately took to the décor – simple, light, trattoria-esque upstairs, dark, candlelit and romantic downstairs. Plenty of room between tables, unusual in London restaurants these days.
We started with burrata, honeydew melon and basil. A delightfully simple combination which I had never thought of. Nduja and crème fraiche bruschetta which was again perfectly balanced, no frills food.
We followed with pasta; of course we did, it’s what the place is famed for! The cacio pepe was peppery and cheesy in equal measure but not at all heavy. Better in fact than many I have had in Rome. We then feasted on pollock, capers and borlotti beans and – brimming with flavour yet still simple and elegant. Salted caramel ice cream dessert was nothing to write home about but we forgive the chef.
The service efficient and quick. The booths downstairs would be super for a group and the general vibe is very intimate and well thought out, the ideal setting for a third date or perhaps a get together for 5 of your closest friends. I don’t think I would travel the length of London to get here but would certainly be a regular if I lived in the neighbourhood. I’m undecided on whether it deserves its cult following – it’s quite simply excellent Italian food….it’s not rocket science.
Trullo
300-302 St Paul's Road
Highbury East
London N1 2LH
Photography: Ming Tang Evans